Whenever you add a new product to your skincare routine, it’s a good idea to start with a patch test – especially if you’ll be using it on your face, or if it contains notably strong ingredients like retinol. Doing a patch test – which involves applying a tiny amount of product to a small, specific area of skin – is a smart way to make sure topicals are well-tolerated and won’t trigger irritations or side effects. It’s easy to do, and you can rest assured that applying the product across greater areas of your skin is safe and won’t cause any negative effects.
You might say slow and steady wins the race when trying new products. Remember: there’s no rush. Taking the extra time to patch test is the best way to avoid unnecessary irritation or even skin damage. Here’s everything you need to know about patch testing new skincare products, including why it matters and how to properly do it.
Why it’s important to do a patch test
Patch tests are a sneak preview of how new products will affect your skin. Most importantly, they let you know if there’s cause for concern or if you should discontinue use. Some factors to note include allergic reactions, pain and irritation, discoloration or color changes, burning sensations, redness or any other uncomfortable or unordinary signs or symptoms.
“Home-based patch testing is when you test a specific product in a small area, known as the repeated open application test or the ROAT test, while patch testing in a doctor’s office tests multiple different allergens, which are individually applied as specific ingredients,” says board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick.
“Both help to test for allergic contact dermatitis, a type IV hypersensitivity reaction, but at-home patch testing will tell you if your skin doesn’t like a certain product, while in-office patch testing can help tell you if a certain ingredient is triggering a reaction,” Garshick explains.
Seeing a dermatologist regularly is important, but unless there are unique circumstances or your skin is exceptionally sensitive, a visit isn’t necessary for trying out new topicals. Learning how to patch test skincare products yourself at home is acceptable for most people.
Note that you’ll want to focus on small areas to minimize the risk of reactions. Those with sensitive or very reactive skin should learn how to patch test skincare properly and be vigilant about doing it for all new products.
Is ‘tingling’ a bad thing?
There’s a difference between tingling and experiencing an adverse reaction or allergy. A tingling sensation is often normal, indicating that skin is adjusting to new ingredients and a product is working effectively.
If you’ve never used retinol or salicylic acid, your skin may be sensitive at first and tingle a bit until it’s grown accustomed to regular use.
“Tingling can happen if the skin barrier is weakened or compromised or if trying a new ingredient for the first time,” Garshick notes. “But if tingling subsides moments after the product is applied, it’s a reassuring sign.”
According to Garshick, a true adverse reaction involves skin appearing red, itchy or flaky when product is applied. If skin reacts, and symptoms are persistent and don’t go away shortly after application, take note. If you have particular skin conditions, you may want to speak with a dermatologist before using any new products.
Garshick suggests avoiding oral steroids when patch testing if you have eczema. Generally, you should avoid topicals known for contributing to contact dermatitis or triggering a reaction without allergies. If your skin is red, irritated, weeping, scaly, flaky or blistered, it indicates a bad reaction, so discontinue use of the product. Tingling without any of these reactive signs present isn’t worrisome, and the product is likely safe to add to your skincare routine.
How to patch test skincare
First, choose an appropriate area on the body or face to perform the patch test.
“When doing a repeated open application test, or a type of at-home patch test, it’s often recommended to use the inner aspect of the arm or just behind an ear or side of the neck,” Garschick advises.
These areas of the skin tend to be thinner and similar to facial skin, but in areas that are less visible, in case a reaction occurs.
Next, it’s important to thoroughly clean your skin and make sure there isn’t residue from other products, cuts, rashes or abrasions present, as these can impact the appearance of skin and the results. Once clean and free of topicals and other residue (such as dirt, bacteria, oil and dead skin cells), you’re ready to patch test.
Garschick advises applying a dime-sized amount, or 5 cm x 5 cm, and sticking with just a small designated area for the duration of the test. For precision and best results, repeat and patch test the same area for a week, applying twice daily. If by the end of the week you don’t see a reaction or any adverse effects, it’s safe to assume there isn’t an allergy or risk with continued use.
Be sure to allow plenty of time for absorption and leave the product on. Garshick notes that if you’re testing cleanser or a shampoo, wash it off as you normally would, then repeat the application twice daily for a week.
Featured Products
